The only Pre Wash Guide you Need
Estimated reading time: 5 minutes
Summary: An in-depth guide to prewashing for detailers of all levels
What's the buzz about pre-washes? Do I really need one?
Let's break down the pre-wash process:
- Apply the pre-wash solution to a dry car without rinsing first (with some exceptions). Use foam only if necessary.
- Allow it to sit for the recommended dwell time, but do not let it dry.
- Rinse off thoroughly.
- Inspect the car. If certain areas still have dirt, apply a second round of pre-wash. Use a bug remover if needed at this stage.
- Proceed to the contact wash.
Why is pre-washing important?
Pre-washing offers three key benefits: safety, efficiency, and thoroughness.
Safety:
Dirt left on your car can damage the paint. Pre-washing helps remove most dirt without touching the paint, reducing the risk of scratches during the contact wash. The chemical cleaning power of a pre-wash minimizes the need for physical contact, which is where most paint damage occurs.
Scratches can occur regardless of the shampoo used if the car is dirty enough, which can happen in just a few days. For frequent washers, a pre-wash might be less critical, but for weekly or less frequent washes, it's highly beneficial.
Efficiency:
Washing without a pre-wash is possible but time-consuming. Without it, you need to constantly switch to a clean side of the microfiber cloth to avoid scratching the paint. This method is tedious and requires many cloths. A pre-wash saves time and effort by removing the bulk of the dirt beforehand.
Thoroughness:
Pre-washes can reach areas that are hard to clean with a wash mitt, like the spaces between panels and around emblems. Without a pre-wash, brushes can just spread the dirt, causing scratches. Pre-washing ensures these areas are cleaned properly, preventing dirt from dripping onto the paint during the contact wash.
Tips for Effective Pre-Washing:
Should I rinse before pre-washing?
Generally, no. Applying the pre-wash solution to a dry, cool surface is best. Pre-rinsing can dilute the pre-wash and prevent the foam from sticking properly. The exception is if the car is excessively muddy, which can block the pre-wash from working effectively.
Foam or no foam?
Foam doesn't add cleaning power but allows for longer dwell times and prevents drying out, which is useful in hot or sunny conditions. Depending on your equipment, using a Foam Gun might be quicker than a pump sprayer.
Rinse top-down or bottom-up?
Both methods work well. If you're satisfied with your current technique, continue with it. For beginners, rinsing bottom-up can help ensure thorough rinsing by making it easier to see where you've rinsed.
Even without a pressure washer, you can still benefit from pre-washing by using the strongest nozzle on your garden hose. While not as effective as a pressure washer, it's still a significant improvement over no pre-wash.
When to rinse?
Rinse after the pre-wash has had time to work, either as per the manufacturer's instructions or when the foam has run down. Always rinse before the product dries on the paint. Proper rinsing is crucial to remove contaminants that can scratch the paint.
Here’s a quick overview of the types of pre-wash solutions and their best uses:
- Rinse: A basic option. Effective to some extent but offers the least cleaning power. Good for removing mud.
- pH Neutral: Offers better cleaning power through increased dwell time. Surfactants help dissolve dirt. Requires a long dwell time. More effective than a simple rinse but not as strong as alkaline solutions. Often available at self-serve stations.
- pH Basic (Alkaline): Strong against organic contaminants and traffic film. Provides the best results. Products vary in strength and material safety. Stronger products can be tricky to use correctly. Cannot be used for both pre-wash and wash.
- pH Acidic: Effective against mineral contaminants. Often used after an alkaline pre-wash. Not very effective on its own. Can rejuvenate coatings by removing mineral deposits.
Source: How to Detail
